Latest from Fashion Network
Fashion Network
12 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Jonathan Anderson debuts at Dior: Welcome to the New Era
Jonathan Anderson presented his debut collection for Dior behind a famed French monument to its military, Les Invalides, and at the finale it felt very much like a designer marching to glory. See catwalk Think of it as the New Era, rather than the New Look, as the Irishman riffed on Dior's DNA, and many women's wear designs of Monsieur Dior himself, to create a powerful pathbreaking fashion statement. Take Monsieur's autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille which Anderson then morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts that opened the show. Or a superb check wool coat, nipped at the waist but scalloped below the hips, a look Monsieur named Caprice from spring 1948, which led to a great series elephantine men's pants with wraparound features. The Stakhanovite Anderson has clearly been putting in long shifts at Dior, mastering the codes, delving into the archives. Playing on another Dior classic, Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale. But taking it forward into the 21st century with some great undulating coats. Plus, his Donegal tweed style versions of the house's signature Bar jacket were pretty sensational. Throughout, there was a whole Edwardian feel – with high collars, stocks and knotted bows, albeit worn without shirts, and paired with great Dior grey fracks, albeit paired with faded jeans. Plus, Anderson will surely ignite huge demand for the trim linen summer gilet - in pink or finished with flowers. While his Jacobean rogue coats will be huge hits. Many looks anchored by a new suede boxing-meets-trail bootie. He dreamed up one striking new mop bag, but otherwise played with Dior's hit fabric tote, but creating many versions printed with classic novels – from Françoise Sagan's "Bonjour Tristesse" to Bram Stroker's "Dracula". If occasionally erratic – one or two chino and striped shirts looks reminded one that Anderson has made several capsule collections for Uniqlo – it still all felt like a major menswear statement and huge hit. Without question it was the most anticipated debut by a designer at a major house this century. If there was any doubt; look at the fellow designers who showed up: Donatella Versace (for whom he briefly designed Versus), Stefano Pilati, Courrèges ' Nicolas Di Felice, Glenn Martens, Silvia Fendi, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Daniel Roseberry, Christian Louboutin, Chitose Abe, Michael Rider, Julien Dossena, Chemena Kamali, and LVMH regulars or alumni – from Pharrell Williams to Kris Van Assche. Talk about designer gridlock. See catwalk The 40-year-old Northern Irishman takes over at Dior as an already acclaimed star. Having turned Loewe, LVMH's leading Spanish brand, into the hottest show in Paris this past half decade. Jonathan's choice of location respected tradition, seeing it was the same square where his immediate predecessor Kim Jones had staged his final show for Dior in January. There the similarity ended, with not a hint of Kim's style in sight. Though the set design did recall Anderson's debut show at Loewe, which featured precisely poured concrete blocks as seats. At Dior, the audience sat on precise plywood blocks, on a plywood floor, under a high ceiling entirely made of illuminated squares. Even since he began teasing on social media his new era at Dior, it's been a respectful homage to classicism. Just like this collection, even if he also managed to turn the whole codes upside down. Somewhat eccentrically, a pre-show French speaker recounted - at length - exact cuts, darts, shapes and fabrics of Dior looks, which turned out to be indie director and French heartthrob, Louis Garrel reading from the memoir "Dior and I". Garrel, whose mop-top hair appears to have been the inspiration for all the models' hairstyle, joined Louvre director Laurence Descartes, Roger Federer, Robert Pattinson, Daniel Craig and Rihanna, in the front row. In teases and in the show, Jonathan also played on Monsieur Dior's great affection for British taste with an opening Instagram post of a blue shirt fabric with a pin for Dior. Putting that online in mid-April six weeks before his appointment was official. Posting all manner of hints from a tape measure curled into a thimble to look like a snail on huge leaf, to an embroidered Louis XIV chair, he personally redesigned. Anderson – who will direct menswear, women's wear and couture at Dior - restored the house's dove gray logo, and replaced the all capital Dior, with just the "D" capitalized. Seen at the entrance to the huge show tent, over a giant illustration of Dior's neo-classical salon on Avenue Montaigne, which witnessed the birth of the house, and the legendary New Look on February 12, 1947. Which segued into two works of fine art – oil paintings by J.B.S. Chardin of a vase full of flowers, or a plate of raspberries – that hung inside the show. Both lent for the show by the Louvre, and much admired by LVMH CEO, and Anderson's ultimate boss, French billionaire, Bernard Arnault, who studied them carefully. As did Jonathan's proud parents, his rugby playing father and one-time captain of the Irish national rugby team Willie, and his elegant schoolteacher mum, Heather. See catwalk Post show, when asked his thoughts on the show, Arnault told 'It was, frankly, magnifique!' Though perhaps the most chatter this fashion sea change inspired was thanks to Anderson's idiosyncratic invitation – a ceramic white plate with three ceramic eggs. Like the solid stools, there was a sense of reassurance. Back when Jonathan was a teen growing up in the outskirts of the small town of Magherafelt in County Derry, his first teenage job was gathering eggs from a local farm. 'Next thing you know, we came back home and there was a sign, 'eggs for sale.' He as selling them. Jonathan has always been an incredibly hard worker. He puts his head down and never stops. But he is still the same person we knew when he left Northern Ireland. And we like that,' said his proud dad.
Fashion Network
15 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Space NK arrives in Leicester for first time with Highcross debut
Space NK has opened its latest UK store at Highcross Leicester marking the beauty giant's first ever entry into the Midlands city. The global beauty brand, which now numbers 76 stores in the UK and Ireland, delivers its now-standard selection of high-end skincare, make-up and wellness products sharing Highcross's beauty space with specialist brands such as Jo Malone, Clarins and Lush and soon-to-open Rituals. Shoppers will also have access to the store's expert advice and complimentary 1-2-1 consultations with its own beauty advisors. Andy Lightfoot, CEO of Space NK, said the location "has long been requested by our customers'. Michelle Menezes, centre director at Highcross, added: 'It's been a busy, but exciting, first half of the year. Our teams have been working tirelessly behind the scenes to secure some amazing, much-loved brands. 'That's why we're thrilled that Space NK has chosen Highcross as its latest destination. We already know that the people of Leicester love to invest in their health and beauty regimes, so we're not surprised to see the huge queue that's formed outside its doors [on opening day], raring to get in and see it for themselves. 'With Mango and Maki & Ramen recently opening their doors, and Rituals on its way, Space NK joins at an exciting juncture, which we're sure will help to drive even more people into the city centre. There's still more to come though, so watch this space for further announcements soon.'
Fashion Network
15 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Nike's turnaround strategy faces stiff headwinds from tariffs and rivals
Nike is making progress in clearing out stocks of out-of-fashion sneakers, particularly the Air Force 1. The company believes it will have worked through the backlog by the end of the first half of this fiscal year. Not having to discount so heavily should boost profitability. Nike expects its gross margin — the difference between the price at which it buys and sells goods — to be down by 3.5 to 4.25 percentage points, including a 1 percentage point hit from tariffs, in the first quarter, compared with a 4.4 percentage point decline in the final three months. The company also looks to be ending its new product drought. The Vomero 18 shoe has generated more than $100 million in sales since its launch at the end of February. Meanwhile, the frenzy around the new hybrid loafer and sneaker, the Air Max Phenomena, has driven resale prices beyond $500 — even before its official release. That looks like a blast from Nike's past, when new models had sneakerheads salivating. Also evoking the kind of innovation that has been so sorely lacking is the Cryoshot, which reinterprets classic football boots for everyday dressing. It builds on the #bootsonlysummer TikTok trend of wearing soccer cleats in the street. For the past two and a half years, such foresight has largely belonged to Gulden. It's a welcome shift to see Nike finally riding a trend — rather than missing it, as it did with retro low-rise shoes. But Hill is far from the finish line. The delay in launching NikeSkims — the collaboration between the sportswear giant and Kim Kardashian 's shapewear company — looks like an own goal, especially given the hype around the tie-up. Of course, Hill wants to make such an important debut, right? However, the long gap between the February announcement and the product release seems unfortunate. It gives rivals like Lululemon Athletica Inc. time to spruce up their collections. The CEO also faces the challenge of Donald Trump 's tariffs. While no company is immune from the levies, they are especially unhelpful to retailers amid revival plans, such as Nike, Target Corp. and Gap Inc. Nike said it faced a cost — before any measures to mitigate the impact of tariffs — of about $1 billion. However, it aims to work with its suppliers and retail partners to offset some of the expense and will implement 'surgical' price increases beginning this fall. The last time sneaker makers encountered such a significant external challenge was four years ago, when Covid-19 lockdowns in Vietnam disrupted supply chains. At the time, Nike didn't struggle with demand — consumers were still clamoring for its sneakers. Today, however, it faces fierce competition not only from a resurgent Adidas but also from rising challengers like On Holding AG and Deckers Outdoor Corp.'s Hoka, which gained ground while Donahoe pursued his ill-fated strategy of selling directly through Nike's own stores and websites. As in the luxury sector, brands that remain highly desirable to consumers will be the ones able to raise prices. Through to Thursday's close, Nike shares are down about 34% over the past year, and about 23% since Hill's appointment in September. They trade at about 2 times the next 12 months' sales, compared with Adidas's 1.5 times. That premium will look too lofty until Hill can turn trying into victory. The views expressed are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of the publication or its affiliates. Andrea Felsted is a Bloomberg Opinion columnist covering consumer goods and the retail industry. Previously, she was a reporter for the Financial Times. with Reuters
Fashion Network
15 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Nike's turnaround strategy faces stiff headwinds from tariffs and rivals
Nike is making progress in clearing out stocks of out-of-fashion sneakers, particularly the Air Force 1. The company believes it will have worked through the backlog by the end of the first half of this fiscal year. Not having to discount so heavily should boost profitability. Nike expects its gross margin — the difference between the price at which it buys and sells goods — to be down by 3.5 to 4.25 percentage points, including a 1 percentage point hit from tariffs, in the first quarter, compared with a 4.4 percentage point decline in the final three months. The company also looks to be ending its new product drought. The Vomero 18 shoe has generated more than $100 million in sales since its launch at the end of February. Meanwhile, the frenzy around the new hybrid loafer and sneaker, the Air Max Phenomena, has driven resale prices beyond $500 — even before its official release. That looks like a blast from Nike's past, when new models had sneakerheads salivating. Also evoking the kind of innovation that has been so sorely lacking is the Cryoshot, which reinterprets classic football boots for everyday dressing. It builds on the #bootsonlysummer TikTok trend of wearing soccer cleats in the street. For the past two and a half years, such foresight has largely belonged to Gulden. It's a welcome shift to see Nike finally riding a trend — rather than missing it, as it did with retro low-rise shoes. But Hill is far from the finish line. The delay in launching NikeSkims — the collaboration between the sportswear giant and Kim Kardashian 's shapewear company — looks like an own goal, especially given the hype around the tie-up. Of course, Hill wants to make such an important debut, right? However, the long gap between the February announcement and the product release seems unfortunate. It gives rivals like Lululemon Athletica Inc. time to spruce up their collections. The CEO also faces the challenge of Donald Trump 's tariffs. While no company is immune from the levies, they are especially unhelpful to retailers amid revival plans, such as Nike, Target Corp. and Gap Inc. Nike said it faced a cost — before any measures to mitigate the impact of tariffs — of about $1 billion. However, it aims to work with its suppliers and retail partners to offset some of the expense and will implement 'surgical' price increases beginning this fall. The last time sneaker makers encountered such a significant external challenge was four years ago, when Covid-19 lockdowns in Vietnam disrupted supply chains. At the time, Nike didn't struggle with demand — consumers were still clamoring for its sneakers. Today, however, it faces fierce competition not only from a resurgent Adidas but also from rising challengers like On Holding AG and Deckers Outdoor Corp.'s Hoka, which gained ground while Donahoe pursued his ill-fated strategy of selling directly through Nike's own stores and websites. As in the luxury sector, brands that remain highly desirable to consumers will be the ones able to raise prices. Through to Thursday's close, Nike shares are down about 34% over the past year, and about 23% since Hill's appointment in September. They trade at about 2 times the next 12 months' sales, compared with Adidas's 1.5 times. That premium will look too lofty until Hill can turn trying into victory. The views expressed are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of the publication or its affiliates. Andrea Felsted is a Bloomberg Opinion columnist covering consumer goods and the retail industry. Previously, she was a reporter for the Financial Times. with Reuters ($1 = £0.73)
Fashion Network
15 hours ago
- Business
- Fashion Network
Umbro: NewAge and Bolivox ink Italy distribution deal, first monobrand store planned for 2026
Umbro has ambitious plans for Italy. NewAge, the exclusive licensee for Italy of the long-established British sportswear brand founded in 1924, has signed a deal with Bolivox, a local distribution agency active in fashion, which operates the Wivian's Factory, Voxa Group and Showroom Libenzi companies. The Umbro name is associated with some of the most memorable events in the history of football, and the brand is now expanding into the lifestyle segment, with collections appealing to a cross-sectional audience, blending functionality with streetwear, performance and design. The relaunch plans very much involve Italy where, thanks to the new agreement, the brand intends to boost its commercial position not only in sportswear, but also in the urban lifestyle segment. 'Umbro is currently distributed via approximately 300 Italian multibrand retailers and about 100 concessions in leading chains,' said Pino Magno, CEO of Umbro Italia, speaking to 'The strategies we're implementing aim to expand our retail footprint as extensively as possible, especially in the lifestyle segment, at all levels of the distribution matrix. We're keen to establish a partnership that will actively involve both [NewAge and Bolivox] on all collection development aspects, from creativity and style to production and distribution. Our short-term goals are to target multibrand lifestyle stores, which will make our online positioning easier too, and subsequently to plan the development of monobrand stores, the first of which could open in 2026,' said Magno. 'The work we've done to build this partnership is the result of a common vision and a highly practical approach. We're convinced that Umbro's potential on the Italian market still needs to be fully exploited, and we're happy to contribute with our organisation and experience,' said Mattia Bodini of Wivian's Factory. Umbro currently generates in Italy just under 10% of its total revenue. The brand's main markets are South America, where it has a long-standing presence, and central and northern Europe.
